cook like james

A few years ago, I was lucky enough to spend some time with friends in Israel during the Purim holiday, and one of the many highlights was exploring Jerusalem’s Machane Yehuda Market, often referred to as "The Shuk". It is the largest market in Jerusalem with over 250 vendors selling everything from fruit and vegetables to specialty foods, and clothing to Judaica. It is without a doubt an experience that must be part of any visit to Jerusalem, filled with fascinating sounds, sights, and smells.  One of the more famous spots is the Marzipan Bakery, which some say has the best Rugelach in Israel, and based on the long lines, they may be right.

Rugelach is a traditional Jewish pastry that is crescent-shaped and bursting with any number of fillings – jam, cinnamon, nuts or chocolate. It comes in two distinct varieties - the first is built on a yeasted dough and most often found in Israel (and at the Marzipan bakery) and the second version, more common here in the States, is made from a dough that’s highly enriched with a combination of butter and cream cheese. This rugelach recipe, from Cook's Country, is light, flaky, and delicious - use your favorite fruit jam, or a combination of jams, to create a simply perfect filling.

Download Perfect Jam-Filled Rugelach recipe

INGREDIENTS:

1 ½ cups (7½ ounces) all-purpose flour

¼ cup (1¾ ounces) granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon table salt

6 ounces cream cheese, cut into 3 pieces and chilled

10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces and chilled

¼ cup sour cream

⅔ cup raspberry and/or apricot jam, divided

¼ cup finely chopped walnuts, optional

1 large egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water

1-2 tablespoons demerara sugar

NOTES:

The demerara sugar adds a nice crunch to these rugelach, but they are still great without it. If you have packets of Sugar in the Raw at home, you can use those in place of the demerara. When brushing the rugelach with the egg wash, brush only a few cookies at a time and then sprinkle them with the demerara sugar immediately. If you brush the egg wash onto all the rugelach at once, it will begin to dry by the time you get to the last rugelach, and the sugar won’t stick. If your jam contains large chunks of fruit, process it in the food processor to a smooth, spreadable consistency before using it. Be sure to check for doneness at 25 minutes; the jam tends to accelerate browning on the bottoms of the rugelach.

1. Process flour, granulated sugar, and salt in food processor until combined, about 3 seconds. Add cream cheese and pulse until large, irregularly sized chunks of cream cheese form with some small pieces interspersed throughout, about 5 pulses. Scatter butter over top and pulse until butter is size of large peas, 5 to 7 pulses.
2. Add sour cream and process until dough forms little clumps that hold together when pinched with your fingers (dough will look crumbly), about 10 seconds.
3. Transfer dough to clean counter and knead briefly until dough just comes together, about 3 turns. Divide dough in half (each piece should weigh about 11 ounces) and form each piece into 4-inch disk. Wrap disks individually with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
4. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Line baking sheet with parchment paper. Roll 1 dough disk into 12-inch circle on lightly floured counter. Using offset spatula, spread ⅓ cup jam evenly over entire surface of circle, sprinkle with finely chopped nuts if using. Using pizza wheel or sharp knife, cut through center of circle to form 16 equal wedges. Starting at wide edge of each wedge, roll dough toward point and transfer to prepared sheet, seam side down.
5. Wipe counter clean, dust counter with additional flour, and repeat with remaining dough disk and remaining ⅓ cup jam. Arrange rugelach in 8 rows of four on sheet.
6. Working with few rugelach at a time, brush tops with egg wash, then sprinkle with demerara sugar. Bake until golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cookies cool completely on sheet, about 20 minutes. Serve.

I found this recipe in a new cookbook from America’s Test Kitchen – Toast Oven Perfection.  I’m often cooking for two and my toaster oven speeds up the whole process and delivers the same results as a traditional oven. The boneless short ribs and celery root cook together on a quarter sheet pan and the whole meal comes together in about 40 minutes with just a few additional fresh ingredients.

Download Coffee Fennel-Rubbed Boneless Short Ribs Roasted Celery Root Parsley Salad recipe

2 pounds celery root, peeled and cut into ¾-inch pieces

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

1½ teaspoons ground fennel

1 teaspoon ground coffee

1 teaspoon packed brown sugar

½ teaspoon garlic powder

12 ounces boneless short ribs, 1½ to 2 inches thick and 4 to 5 inches long, trimmed

½ cup pomegranate seeds

½ cup fresh parsley leaves

1 teaspoon lemon juice

*Note: The thickness and marbling of boneless short ribs can vary; look for lean ribs cut from the chuck. Do not substitute bone-in English-style short ribs. Because they are cooked gently and not seared, the short ribs will be rosy throughout.

1. Adjust the oven rack to the lowest position and heat to 450 degrees. Combine fennel, coffee, sugar, garlic powder, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in small bowl. Pat short ribs dry with paper towels, rub with 1 teaspoon oil, and sprinkle evenly with spice mixture. Arrange ribs on one half of the small sheet pan.

2. Toss celery root with 2 teaspoons oil, ⅛ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper in bowl; transfer to the empty side of sheet pan and arrange in a single layer.

3. Roast until meat registers 120-125 degrees (for medium-rare) or 130-135 degrees (for medium) and celery root is tender, about 10-15 minutes, flipping ribs and tossing celery root halfway through roasting. Transfer short ribs to cutting board, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest while preparing salad.

4. Transfer celery root to large bowl, add pomegranate seeds, parsley, lemon juice, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Slice short ribs thin and serve with salad.

This "perfect" recipe is from the December / January 2009 issue of Cook’s Country magazine, and they really are spectacular. I’ve added an easy recipe for strawberry butter, because if you’ve had had the popovers at Neiman Marcus, you know that is how they are always served. The batter is easy to throw together, and they are great for a Sunday brunch.

Download Perfect Popovers Strawberry Butter recipe

Vegetable shortening, as needed

3 large eggs

2 cups low-fat milk, heated to 110 degrees

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

2 cups bread flour (all-purpose will also work)

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

Strawberry Butter

1 stick butter, softened

1/3 cup best quality strawberry preserves

*Note: Greasing the pans with shortening ensures the best release, but cooking spray may be substituted; do not use butter. To gauge the popovers’ progress without opening the oven door, use the oven light during baking. Bread flour makes for the highest and sturdiest popovers, but an equal amount of all-purpose flour may be substituted.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees.
2. Grease interior of 6-cup popover pan with shortening, then dust lightly with flour. Whisk eggs until light and foamy in medium bowl. Slowly whisk in milk and butter until incorporated.
3. Combine flour, salt, and sugar in large bowl. Whisk three-quarters of milk mixture into flour mixture until no lumps remain, then whisk in remaining milk mixture. Transfer batter to large measuring cup, cover with plastic, and let rest at room temperature for 1 hour. (Alternatively, batter can be refrigerated for 1 day. Bring to room temperature before proceeding with recipe.)
4. After batter has rested, whisk to recombine, then pour into prepared popover pan (batter will not quite reach top of cups). Bake until just beginning to brown, about 20 minutes. Without opening oven door, decrease oven temperature to 300 degrees and continue to bake until popovers are golden brown all over, 35 to 40 minutes longer. Poke small hole in top of each popover with skewer and continue to bake until deep golden brown, about 10 minutes longer. Transfer popover pan to wire rack. Poke again with skewer and let cool 2 minutes. Turn out popovers. Serve.
5. Make Ahead: Once popovers have cooled completely, they can be stored at room temperature in zipper-lock bag for 2 days. To serve, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Heat popovers on rimmed baking sheet until crisp and heated through, 5 to 8 minutes.

For the Strawberry Butter

1. Beat the butter with electric mixer for 1 minute until fluffy, add strawberry preserves and beat until combined. Serve at room temperature, refrigerate leftovers.

When I saw this posted on America’s Test Kitchen's Instagram, I knew I had to try it. It is a perfect holiday dessert, with all the traditional flavor of eggnog baked into a rich and creamy custard pie. The whipped cream is unique and particularly delicious with this pie.

Download Spirited Holiday Eggnog Pie

INGREDIENTS

Single Crust Pie Dough

10 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled, divided

1 ½ cups (6¼ ounces) all-purpose flour, divided

1 tablespoon sugar

½ teaspoon table salt

¼ cup ice water, divided

Eggnog Custard Filling

¾ cup (4⅔ ounces) sugar

3 large eggs

3 tablespoons cornstarch

⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon

⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg

⅛ teaspoon table salt

2 cups whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons dark rum (for more kick, use ¼ cup)

Brown Sugar and Bourbon Whipped Cream

1 cup heavy cream, chilled

1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

⅛ teaspoon table salt

½ cup sour cream

2 teaspoons bourbon

Cinnamon and grated nutmeg for dusting finished pie

FOR THE DOUGH:

1. Grate 2 tablespoons butter on large holes of box grater and place in freezer. Cut remaining 8 tablespoons butter into ½-inch cubes.
2. Pulse ¾ cup flour, sugar, and salt in food processor until combined, 2 pulses. Add cubed butter and process until homogeneous paste forms, about 30 seconds. Using your hands, carefully break paste into 2-inch chunks and redistribute evenly around processor blade. Add remaining ½ cup flour and pulse until mixture is broken into pieces no larger than 1 inch (most pieces will be much smaller), 4 to 5 pulses. Transfer mixture to bowl. Add grated butter and toss until butter pieces are separated and coated with flour.
3. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons ice water over mixture. Toss with rubber spatula until mixture is evenly moistened. Sprinkle remaining 2 tablespoons ice water over mixture and toss to combine. Press dough with spatula until dough sticks together. Transfer dough to sheet of plastic wrap. Draw edges of plastic over dough and press firmly on sides and top to form compact, fissure-free mass. Wrap in plastic and form into 5-inch disk. Refrigerate dough for at least 2 hours or up to 2 days. Let chilled dough sit on counter to soften slightly, about 10 minutes, before rolling. (Wrapped dough can be frozen for up to 1 month. If frozen, let dough thaw completely on counter before rolling.)

FOR THE PIE:

1. Roll dough into 12-inch circle on floured counter. Loosely roll dough around rolling pin and gently unroll it onto 9-inch pie plate, letting excess dough hang over edge. Ease dough into plate by gently lifting edge of dough with your hand while pressing into plate bottom with your other hand.
2. Trim overhang to ½ inch beyond lip of plate. Tuck overhang under itself; folded edge should be flush with edge of plate. Crimp dough evenly around edge of plate. Wrap dough-lined plate loosely in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees.
3. Line chilled pie shell with double layer of aluminum foil, covering edges to prevent burning, and fill with pie weights. Bake on foil-lined rimmed baking sheet until edges are set and just beginning to turn golden, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking. Remove foil and weights, rotate sheet, and continue to bake crust until golden brown and crisp, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Transfer sheet to wire rack. (Crust must still be warm when filling is added.)
4. While crust bakes, whisk sugar, eggs, cornstarch, ⅛ teaspoon cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt together in bowl. Bring milk and cream to simmer in large saucepan over medium heat. Slowly whisk 1 cup of hot milk mixture into egg mixture to temper, then slowly whisk tempered egg mixture into remaining milk in saucepan. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until mixture is thickened, bubbling, and registers 180 degrees, 30 to 90 seconds (custard should have consistency of thick pudding). Strain mixture through fine-mesh strainer into clean bowl, then stir in rum.
5. With pie still on sheet, pour custard into warm crust, smoothing top with clean spatula into even layer. Bake until center of pie registers 160 degrees, 14 to 18 minutes. Let pie cool completely on wire rack, about 4 hours. Spread whipped cream attractively over pie and dust with remaining ⅛ teaspoon cinnamon. Serve.

FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM

1. Whisk all ingredients together in bowl of stand mixer, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. Using stand mixer fitted with whisk, whip all ingredients together on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to high and whip until soft peaks form, 1 to 3 minutes.

Butter Chicken (Murgh Makhani) is an enormously popular dish that you will find served in practically every Indian restaurant around the world.  Tender chicken in a rich and creamy sauce with bold flavors that are vibrant and complex. This recipe from Cook’s Illustrated uses the broiler to imitate the deep charring produced by a tandoor oven and has a perfect balance of spices including garam masala, coriander, cumin, and black pepper. The serrano chile adds just enough heat, but if you want the dish even hotter, mince, and add the ribs and seeds from the chile. Serve with Basmati Rice and warm Naan bread. 

Download Best Butter Chicken (Murgh Makhani) recipe

INGREDIENTS

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces and chilled, divided

1 onion, chopped fine

5 garlic cloves, minced

4 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1 serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced

1 tablespoon garam masala

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon pepper

1 ½ cups water

½ cup tomato paste

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons table salt, divided

1 cup heavy cream

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed

½ cup plain Greek yogurt

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, divided

1. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, ginger, and serrano and cook, stirring frequently, until mixture is softened and onion begins to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add garam masala, coriander, cumin, and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 3 minutes.

2. Add water and tomato paste and whisk until no lumps of tomato paste remain. Add sugar and 1 teaspoon salt and bring to boil. Off heat, stir in cream. Using immersion blender or blender, process until smooth, 30 to 60 seconds. Return sauce to simmer over medium heat and whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons butter. 

3. Remove saucepan from heat and cover to keep warm. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 4 days; gently reheat sauce before adding hot chicken.)

4. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Combine chicken, yogurt, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt in bowl and toss well to coat. Using tongs, transfer chicken to wire rack set in aluminum foil—lined rimmed baking sheet. Broil until chicken is evenly charred on both sides and registers 175 degrees, 16 to 20 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through broiling. 

5. Let chicken rest for 5 minutes. While chicken rests, warm sauce over medium-low heat. Cut chicken into ¾-inch chunks and stir into sauce. Stir in 2 tablespoons cilantro and season with salt to taste. Transfer to serving dish, sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon cilantro, and serve with rice and/or naan.